PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 3:01 pm

Got my unfinished adapter plate for my R154 from Novak Adapters and thought I would show it off. Cost me $218 (regular kit was over $300) and they machined it to fit a standard Mopar bearing retainer (5.12 OD). I asked for an unfinished one so I didn't have to pay them for the engineering time to locate the BH holes. The important part was getting the funky trans pattern located so that the input shaft was centered. Now all I have to do is drop my bell on it, rotate it to square the plate (and trans), mark and drill the holes and finish the outside of the plate.
Makin' progress.
BTW, the basis for this plate is the AX15 adapter plate. Just an FYI
Read towards the end of this thread for more info.
Front
Back
With bearing retainer
Note the bosses for the bolts. Quality stuff.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:42 pm

That looks really sweet,what bh are you using? I am following this close as I am still looking for an alterative to the 3 on the tree in my 63 Dart.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:15 am

Bellhousing will be a late model slant 6 OD unit. I plan to use the third of the three bolt patterns on the back (1. 4 speed, 2. 3 speed, 3. truck?).
Ran into a problem last night, though. I spent considerable time researching this and thought I had everything covered, but I missed one thing. The input shaft on the R154 is 1 1/8' while the input shaft on the OD 4 speed is 1'. The Mopar bearing retainer wont fit over the input shaft because of that.
Right now I've come up with two options.
1. Bore the bearing retainer out to fit. Only problem I see with that is strength. It's about 1/8' thick right now, boring it would leave 3/32' or less (per some quick measurements last night). I could add a sleeve over the top of what was left to beef it up and run an 18 spline throw out bearing, but I'm not sure that would work.
2. Run a Hemi 18 spline bearing retainer and throw out bearing. Only problem I see there is I would then need an adapter ring to bring the BR OD out to the 5.12 size I need for my BH.
More thought required.
Dang, this is the second time I've been bit my something I didn't see (k-frame was the first). I guess that's what I get for being the first to try something.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 11:30 pm

What will you do for a pilot bushing or bearing? Also ,how hard would it be just to pull the input shaft and have it turned down which would solve the bearing retainer problem and also the pilot bushing/bearing problem.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 11:46 pm

Problem is with the splines on the input shaft. Can't turn those down without having clutch disk problems.
May not be as big an issue as I was thinking. I need to measure it again, but the difference may be more like .006', not .06' like I first thought.
Time will tell.
About the pilot bushing, my first idea is a late model roller bushing (the big one that fits in the crank where the torque converter hub would) plus an adapter pressed on the end of the input shaft. Not too worried about that.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:18 pm

Well, my new 18 spline bearing retainer from Passon Performance came today, and I have the ring to space the retainer back to the 5.12 OD I need, so hopefully I will start making progress again.
I will post a new pic soon, but don't expect it to look much different than the above ones.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:14 pm

Finally made some progress. Still some work to do, but at least I can bolt it to the motor and start working on getting it in the car.
Not the shape I was planning on for the adapter, didn't expect it to be so much work to shape a 1' thick plate of aluminum. Learned lots, but next time I will see if I can get a completed custom adapter.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:15 pm

Very nice work. What is the depth of the bellhousing? Also, could this adapter be modified to use with a BB Mopar application? Just asking.
Greg

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:37 pm

Hey Greg, thanks for the comments.
Don't know the depth of the bell, but I do know the input shaft splines are 2' from the end of the bell. Adapter is .9' thick. Is that enough info?
Don't think my setup would work with a BB bell. I used a set of holes that only seem to be on the SB and /6 OD bells. Not sure what it's for, but it's not the 3 or 4 speed pattern, and on the SB bell the holes aren't even drilled and tapped, but the pattern is there.
If I were to do a BB, I would buy a Quicktime bell for a TKO trans, and a Ford/AX15 setup from Advanced Adapters. But, I don't know if the input shaft length on the R154 is long enough for that. Maybe Quicktime would do a custom depth bell for this kind of setup if it's too short.
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 3:42 pm

I'm wondering how one of these would hold up against a BB Mopar. I have seen a BB truck bell that might be usable with the Advance Adapter AX15 plate.
http://www.wicken-racing.com/Photos/tru .. 497272.jpg
Or maybe with the one you've been modding. I guess the deciding factor would be bellhousing depth. Anyway, I love what you've done with the Novak plate. That's certainly top shelf. My other thing is how you're going to fit it in a torsion bar car. I've seen an Aussie website that shows how a gent down there cut up the crossmember and welded it back together for clearance. Do you have something like that in mind?
http://www.moparmarketforum.com/phpBB/v .. hp?t=11788
My own ride is a 77 Volare Road Runner. It's not so dependent upon the crossmember.
http://rides.hotrod.com/ride/1001966/gr .. index.html
Greg

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 4:32 pm

I know the quicktime bells are SFI approved, so I would guess they would be fine.

Never seen one like that before. Wonder what if fits.
Without measurements it's hard to say, but I'm betting the more standard looking bolt pattern (as opposed to the really odd looking wide but short pattern) is not the Ford butterfly pattern, but a standard 3 speed pattern. If that's the case, it wont work with an off the shelf adapter.
Comparing it to the drawing below, if the bottom two bolts on the BB bell are the same as the holes labeled #2 (3 speed on the /6 bell), they would work ok, but the bolts would have to come in from the inside of the bell. On the other hand, you have two bolts on the top (the top two in the weird pattern) that would work great and solve the problem I had on the top drivers side bolt. Mine is closer than I would like to the dowel hole and adapter to trans bolt hole.

Something like that. We should dig into it tomorrow, but I fully expect to have a big chunk of floor missing before the day is over.
I don't think it will be any worse than what people have to do when they put a 518/500 OD auto in an A-Body.
BTW, couldn't get your rides link to work.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 4:51 pm

Here's my baby:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/my-keeper-114802.html
Not a Slant but right as rain.. Anyway, I don't want to hijack this thread. That is one sweet conversion you've got going. Any idea for a clutch yet?
Greg

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:41 pm

Sweet, I always wanted to do a BB F-Body. My nephew did it instead, fast car but he keeps wiping cam lobes.
Not sure on the clutch yet, but I have a 10' setup for a slant and figured I would look at a cover of some type for an early 273, and a disk for a 2000'ish Toyota pickup. Need to go back and look, but I think the V6 ones have the right splines, and they are 10' in diameter.
I posted some info on clutches that I found here. Probably start by looking into a Ram setup.
Time will tell.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 8:59 pm

Dion,
You have that R154 bolted to a slant yet?
Joshua

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:30 pm

I did last summer. Didn't mess with the clutch or anything, though. Just worked on the crossmember and trani mount.
Still pretty ugly. Life got in the way, then winter so I don't have anything better than this to show for it.
Didn't take any with the motor and trani out of the car.
I did figure out what I will probably do for a clutch, though. Talked to a rep at Spec clutches and it looks like they would put together a package with a Tacoma V6 disk and a 273 10' pressure plate, for about the same as the 273 kit was (kind of shooting from the hip, but I think that is accurate). Just need to find some real money so I can buy all the things I need.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car